Archives for posts with tag: Momofuku

If you thought the wing recipe was long, it still pales in comparison to the time and attention paid to the Momofuku Ramen Noodle Bowl. A bowl of ramen at Momofuku cost $16, and now knowing how much time and energy goes into the construction of the bowl of noodles, I’d say it’s well worth it.

Making the broth is a time consuming process, and I would suggest starting in mid morning so by dinner time, the broth should be ready. I also believe that if you chill the broth overnight, the flavors will meld together even more the next day, so starting a day or two early is never a bad idea with these recipes. There are 8 or 9 different ingredients that need to be simmered, most of them one at a time, and the entire process takes about 8 or 9 hours.

To make the broth, you start with boiling and seeping a piece of kombu, or seaweed, which lends a savory and salty flavor to the water. The kombu only needs to be seeped for about 10-15 minutes after the water boils, and is discarded afterwards.

Dried Shitake Mushrooms are simmered in the kombu broth next to lend the golden color the very distinctive mushroom flavor. You can buy dried Shitakes from Asian supermarkets and I’ve seen them sold at Central Market as well. They are a lot cheaper and has a stronger flavor than fresh Shitake mushrooms, and they keep a lot longer as well. A lot of Asian recipes will call the use of Shitake mushrooms and they are all made from re-hydrated dried Shitakes. The shitakes are taken out after 30-40 minutes in the broth, and you can use these to make pickled Shitakes to put in the Ramen bowl.

Next ingredient to get a bath in the broth is chicken, and the recipe says to use a whole 4 lb chicken, but since I was only making half the recipe for the broth, I decided to use drumsticks. You want to use chicken pieces that have bones it for the broth, and drumsticks are a cheap option. After 1 hour of simmering, the chicken drumsticks are taken out, and you can shred them and use them later in the Ramen bowl. It’s important to add water as needed to keep the chicken covered.

Once you start placing meat in the broth, you will find that natural fats and blood remnants released from the skin and the bones of the meat will rise to the surface and form scum. It’s very important to continuously de-scum the surface of the broth for any oils if you want a clean tasting broth. Like I said before, it’s a very time consuming project that needs to be babysat constantly.

While the chicken is simmering, you should start browning pork bones for the next addition. You can buy pork bones from Asian or Hispanic supermarkets and like the chicken bones, they are very cheap. I tried substituting beef bones the first time I made the broth but the taste was just off.

After the chicken is done, the browned bones and smoked bacon are placed in the broth, and here the de-scumming becomes even more important, since bone marrow and bacon both are high fat ingredients. After 45 minutes, the bacon is taken out and discarded. Then the bones are simmered for 6-7 more hours, or as long as your schedule allows, adding water as needed to keep the bones covered.

During the final hour of cooking, onions, carrots, and spring onions are added to the broth.

When the broth is finally done, discard the bones and the vegetables, and strain the broth into a large bowl for when you are ready to use. You can either refrigerate the broth or freeze the broth in freezer bags for later use. They will keep for at least 2 or 3 months. If you decide to chill the broth in the fridge, you will find that the broth may chill to a gelatin consistency the next day, which is okay. If there is a layer of congealed fat on top of the chilled broth, you want to remove that to make sure that the broth is as clear as possible.Before using the broth, you want to reheat it gently and add the Tare to season the broth. How much to add is completely a personal preference. The Tare is very salty so start small and build from there.

When reheating the broth, you may want to add a cup of water (or more) to thin out the broth a bit, and re-season with the Tare to taste. The finished broth should be a golden brown color, not cloudy. I continued to de-scum the broth until it was ready to serve.

In the ramen I had at Momofuku, there was both pork belly and pulled pork. I decided to make just pulled pork since I’m only making the ramen for two. If you do decide to make the pork belly, you can use the leftovers to make Momofuku pork buns, which is also excellent. Compared to the broth, the pulled pork is pretty easy to make. You marinate the pork in a salt and sugar rub for 6 to 24 hours, then slow braise it in the oven for 6-7 hours. I was feeling lazy this time, but next time I would considering smoking the pork shoulder. The pork can be served shredded or in slices.

The brown stuff at the bottom of the pan left over from roasting the pork, also called fond, is something you want to think about keeping. It’s basically concentrated flavor. French cooks likes to mix it with wine and broth and cook it until it’s thick for sauces or flavoring or even foundations for broth. You can use the same method I used to make the Tare and start experimenting.

For the pickled vegetables, you want to make pickled thai bird chili first if you like adding heat to the veges. These are very easy to make and will last forever if you keep them in the pickling liquid in the fridge.

The pickled Shitake and seasoned bamboo shoots both use 1 or 2 pickled Thai bird chilies. These pickled vegetables can be used in other Asian dishes like sushi/kimbap, bibimbap, etc (see my previous entry on Korean food).

The noodle I used is just fresh Chinese egg noodles you can pick up from Asian supermarkets. They take 1 minute to cook in boiling water, then I drained and ran them in cold running water to stop the cooking process. I tossed the noodles in some sesame oil and set it aside until I’m ready to serve the bowls. When you are ready to serve, place all the individual ingredients in an assembly line to add to the bowls.

After approximately 12 hours of work total, I’d say that the result was well worth it. I was also very satisfied with the way my broth came out, much better than last time.

I love college football because I went to a big football university, the University of Florida, home of the Gators. I usually don’t care for professional football until recently when former UF players started showing up in Pro teams. Aaron Hernandez and Brendan Spikes both currently play for the Patriots, and of course their much more famous former team captain Tim Tebow is the quarter back for the Broncos.  For this year’s Superbowl, I wanted to make chicken wings,  a staple for Superbowl parties.

When I thought of chicken wings, the recipe from Momofuku’s cookbook came to mind immediately. It’s described by David Chang, the author (and owner of Momofuku restaurants in NYC), as the world’s longest chicken wing recipe, and man is it worth it. The wings are brined, cold smoked, confit-ed in lard, chilled overnight, reheated and seared, and finally tossed in a sauce that is made from chicken carcasses, sake, and soy sauce. You want to start this recipe at least a day beforehand, and especially since the chicken can chill in the pork fat for up to a week.

My first experience with Momofuku’s came about 3 or 4 years ago visiting one of my best friends from highschool in NYC. She had told me about this restaurant that serves the best Ramen noodle bowls in the world. Prior to this I had no inkling who David Chang is, but after the visit, I became a super fan of this man and all of his restaurants, recipes, and publications.  The noodle bowl came with braised pork belly, pulled braised pork shoulder, pickled vegetables, fresh peas, Nori, and a soft boiled egg. The broth that held it all together was one of the tastiest things I’ve ever had: salty, meaty, smoky…

I pre-ordered the Momofuku cookbook as soon as it was announced, and I tried the Ramen recipe immediately after I got the book. I did not fully understand how much time was required to make the broth, so while the individual meat and pickled vegetable and eggs tasted great, the broth was not there. Since I was going to make the Momofuku chicken wings anyways, I decided to give the ramen recipe another go.

Starting with the wings, the first thing I decided to make is the Tare, which is the sauce made out of browned chicken carcasses, Sake, and Soy sauce. The Tare is also used as the seasoning for the Ramen broth. The recipe called for roasting chicken carcasses in the oven for 40 minutes, then cooking the burnt goodness on the bottom of the pan up with sake and light soy sauce until it’s thick. You can buy chicken carcasses from Asian supermarkets for very cheap, and I think if you ask butchers in stores like Whole Foods or Central Market, they will sell you some as well. You can also toss in the wingtips from the chicken wings if you’d like. It’s also very important to use light soy sauce as regular soy sauce will be too salty. You can buy light soysauce in Asian supermarket or Japanese specialty stores, or you can probably thin it out with water. The Tare recipe in the cookbook will yield way more than you need for the chicken wing recipe, but like I said, you can use it for seasoning for the Ramen broth and almost anything else.

The photo below shows the stage where I’ve just put in the sake and light soy sauce in the browned bones and I’m scraping up the burnt bits on the bottom of the pan.

After sectioning and cleaning up the chicken wings, they are put into a brine of salt and sugar for at least an hour but no more than 6. I then smoked the chicken for 45 minutes in a 150C grill to give it a smoky flavor but not cook the wings. The wings are then submerged in lard (or you can use grapeseed oil, or any neutral tasting oil) and confit-ed in a low heat oven for 30 minutes.

Then the chicken wings need to chill overnight in the fat until you are ready to use them the next day. If using Lard, the lard will congeal and turn white, if using oil, it will stay clear and fluid in the fridge. When you are ready to use the wings, you want to heat up the container a little bit and melt the lard enough to be able to pull out the chicken. Drain the chicken wings before cooking.

The wings are seared in a hot cast iron pan, and I put another smaller cast iron pan on top to press the wings down to make sure it gets a good brown sear.

The wings will take approximately 3-4 minutes on each side to sear, once it’s a nice dark golden brown, it’s ready to be sauced.

The Tare is heated up with some garlic and pickled Thai bird chilies, and poured over the wings to cover. I let the wings simmer for a few minutes longer in the pan to get the sauce nice and thick.

The wings were smoky and tender, and the sauce sweet, salty, and finger licking good. You can find these recipes from the Momofuku cook book. There are also a lot of websites dedicated cooking all Momofuku recipes such as that you can check out to get recipes and ideas.